16 July

First day.  And what a day! Fantastic views, quiet roads, sun shining..........and the wind.  Straight at me, 25mph for the first 50 miles.  Like cycling through treacle.  It was one of the hardest days cycling I’ve ever done.  

I started outside the First and Last House with my family seeing me off. The boys looked doubtful.  Am anda looked hopeful.  I looked a bit ridiculous.  Then it was straight along the coast, wind in my hair, peddling like fury and getting nowhere.   There are a few peculiarities about northern Scotland.  First, the inordinate number of graveyards, second the definition of a village which seems to mean just two houses and third, the fact that it’s a very, very long way away.   The views are incredible, though, loads of secluded coves with turquoise sea and white sand.  I went for almost fifty miles along this coast line, and even though it was incredibly hard work, it was worth it.  

We then met up at Bettyhill, where after a cup of tea, and some food, I turned left to head South (finally).  Peculiarly, almost immediately I did, the wind changed direction to come back in my face again!  Another 20 miles and I arrived at Altnaharra campsite, on the banks of Loch Naver.  Quite spectacular and worth the effort. 

Almost everyone we have spoken to about Scotland warned us about the midges.  Stories of people running for cover, wearing Beekeepers hats being chased by swarms of them.  “I woke up like I’d had chicken pox’’ ‘’ Make sure you take insect repellent, Avon is the best, the Army use it’’  ‘’I had an aunt who was admitted to hospital.....’‘   Well, we didn’t see one.  Not one.  Saw a fly, but that’s a bit big to qualify.   No midges.

For all of those who worried about my backside, I’ll keep you up to date each day.  First day so good, no soreness.

Right off to bed now.  Inverness tomorrow.